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Postby clee » Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:19 pm

Adjustable top is easily done with a non concentric pin but needs wishbone mod .The rear drop is not that dramatic , just needs a softer setup .
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Postby Trevor Skedge » Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:34 pm

Hi Martin,

Can't say as I understand all the geo setting but I can scan the printout they gave me with the before and afters and perhaps you will be able to get the picture. I do know it was a compromise though and they recommended slotting the top wishbone to reduce the camber at the rear.

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Postby MFaulks » Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:29 pm

Hi Trevor,

That is what I did last time, slot and weld washer to allow easy re assembly without checking each time. You will also prematurely go through tyres otherwise, and that's a lot of rubber to waste through all small section being scrubbed off with high point loading. As you have adjustables, then, the real advantage is you can set the corner weights, and that way get a really nice handling balance - worth thinking about if you haven't done it. Well I think it's worth the extra effort when you have the right setup for it, height measurement alone is just giving you the looks, and not the packages worth in terms of function.

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Postby Trevor Skedge » Sat Oct 13, 2012 12:03 am

Martin,

Makes good sense to me. Anyone know the standard spring rates front and rear? Current thinking is the rates I have at the moment are too hard at I believe 500 rear and 400 front so was thinking something in the middle or closer to standard. Have you any pics of te camber mod you used?

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Postby Trevor Skedge » Sat Oct 13, 2012 12:10 am

I could also do with a right rear calliper if anyone has one.

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Postby clee » Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:28 am

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Postby Trevor Skedge » Sat Oct 13, 2012 8:56 am

Clee,

Brilliant that's just what I wanted and given the recommendation for 300 front and 400 rears, this would explain why the 400 and 500 rates that I think I have are so hard. Can't wait to change them now and get the car to how I imagined it would be. Just in case anyone thinks this is criticism of work done by Clee it's not or indeed the supplied suspension as I should have done better homework before I started but was too lazy!
Got to fix the inoperative hand brake soon with a replacement calliper unless anyone knows if a strip down will be effective?

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Postby Jon K » Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:57 pm

Trevor, can you just not send the caliper in to Bigg Red for a refurb?

I sent my left rear to brakes international who did a good job but Bigg Red were better on the finish. At the time the LHR was completely unavailable RHR was available.
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Postby Trevor Skedge » Sat Oct 13, 2012 7:31 pm

Hi John,

Yes that's an option but if I can get a replacement then I can simply swap without wait.

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Postby JohnC » Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:30 pm

....... Simon Autos ... both new or refurbed.

PS, Both LH & RH refurbished in stock 236.81 euros each + postage and cost or returning old unit :wink:
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Postby Trevor Skedge » Sun Oct 14, 2012 10:41 pm

Sorted rear calipers now courtesy of Miles thanks. Slight confusion on the spring rates though as in the GTA specs on this site it says standard rates are front 233 and rear 350lbs but under the suspension link above and on ths site it says front 243 and rear 310lbs. Anyone care to go definitive on this?

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Postby Trevor Skedge » Mon Oct 22, 2012 9:48 am

Forgot to post up the geo results. Perhaps someone else will understand them better than I but whilst I know they are not ideal I also know that it drives a lot better than whn it went in.

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Postby stephendell » Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:41 am

Look at the table above. Early and late spring rates were slightly different. They softened the rear and stiffened up the front on the later cars.
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Postby Trevor Skedge » Wed Oct 31, 2012 2:19 pm

I have now fitted the rear offside calliper I bought from Dave Miles (thanks Dave and John for putting me in touch) and that has cured the knocking I was getting from that side. Trouble is the handbrake is still not working properly on that side. The manual asks of an R mark on the piston which should be orientated towards the bleed nipple however my piston has a O in one of the machined pad locators. I have put this towards the top near the bleed nipple, is this correct. When the calliper was on the bench the lever on the calliper appeared to work fine but when the cable is connected it holds the lever at around 50% of its travel so I wonder if the cable needs adjusting to sit in its fully released position in order for the handbrake to operate correctly?

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Postby Tony Smith » Wed Oct 31, 2012 11:22 pm

Trevor Skedge wrote: Great economy though as it did 40mpg on the way home which was 95% 70mph motorway.

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