Thank you for your encouragement! I've started amassing the bits - it's unfortunate that I didn't post earlier as I've already gone and bought the multi-way bulkhead connectors! I'll quote against various comments here:
1. Loom interconnects, bulkhead connectors - great adds flexibility and ease of maintenance, but reduces reliability significantly, even military conectors, they are one of your highest failure points, I do this sh_it for living, and we are always looking to eliminate them. So I would say, if you can avoid the bulk head connector, simply do... you are not going to be pulling the loom, replacing the engine more than once, max twice in the vehicle's lifetime.. certainly not on a frequent basis. The "connectorisation" if you like, assists faster cheaper install for the manufacturer, it doesn't add technically to the quality, just convenience. Keep it simple if you can, but I do understand allows additional wires to be run in later, but you could make provision for that now with planning.
Ho hummm... See above! I appreciate what you're saying and you're probably right but I already planned to do it that way and so ordered the various connectors ahead of your post! I actually ordered two of them from different sources (much cheaper on eBay) so I could have an extra shell over the wiring as I couldn't find the shells separately... I think I'll still go with them, as I like the separation aspect. I'll probably run extra wires from the socket through the loom into the cabin, but leave them unconnected in the plug - that leaves me room for future expansion and then I only have to wire in the extras when I need them.
For reference, I bought the following connectors (sorry Martin):http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1Pc-Military- ... SwBahVKJQZ
Y2M-50TK - they appear to be Russian but made in China - I got the original one from TriggerWheels.com but found them for half that price (approx £12.50) on Amazon and Ebay. Can't be bothered with the faff of returning to TriggerWheels!
I ordered a loom wiring kit from Trigger Wheels and some 2 way and 3 way Junior Timer plugs.
Another mistake was to order male and female 3-pin Econoseal connectors from EFI-Parts. I thought they looked compatible with the OE O2 sensor and TPS but they aren't. They are a lot smaller...
So, I now plan to not worry about the O2 sensor as I'll be going wideband, which requires a separate controller anyway. I'll get the proper connectors for that when I decide which wideband controller to get (and I've sold some more stuff to make up the cash!). Regarding the TPS, I will rewire the OE TPS to use the 3-pin Econoseal connector and then I'll have a matching connector for the loom. If I ever do go back to the OE loom, I'll just replace the 3-pin connector on it with an Econoseal one anyway - the wires in my loom have been bodged before, so it would be good to replace them if they're ever needed.
Regarding the OE TDC sensor, I will use screened cable for it and will most likely not join it anywhere until the loom. That saves passing a screened connection through the multi-way. Good idea to keep it separate anyway.
4. If I understand right, you are thinking of keeping the OE variable reluctance tdc sensor, and presume trigered off the OE flywheel tooth pattern? All good, just remember, you will then need the cam sensor to identify tdc no.1 for ignition as well. But should be easy, as the cut-outs are already in some versions of the cam sprockets, come in through the front timing case cover.
QUESTION: Does anyone know where to get the female connector for the OE TDC sensor? What's the connector called? I'd like to keep the OE connector, but if not, I can get any 2-pin waterproof connector pair and use that instead.
Yes - already planning for a cam sensor. My plan is to use a hall-effect sensor with a magnet on the end of an OE rotor arm, modified to hold the magnet. I've received the sensor and magnets - here's the sensor I plan to use:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121522431810? ... EBIDX%3AIT
Looks pretty cool, doesn't it? Should be reasonably easy to mount and is nicely encapsulated. My research tells me it should work, given its specs.
5. Controlling the Amal valve is one option (I think it's 3 wire from memory, could easily be wrong though), or there are cost effective, and reliable single ended solenoids you could just control from a pwm output.
Looks two wire to me - want to control it from a PWM output...
6. IMHO I wouldn't sweat a bunch over (semi) sequential over batch injection fire necessarily, we're not F1 here, and the 12V PRV isn't the most lean burn engine by far, so not a huge amount to gain in reality, semi is nice to have, but wouldn't add the cam sensor to get that, only really so that you can go coil packs and lose the dizzy.
Yep - fair enough. Thanks!
7. IMO I would go high impedance injectors, and save the need for the higher current peak and hold injector drivers.. yes we could argue the relative merits of this and that, but modern multi-spray injectors.. whack 'em in...
Oh... Darn, didn't realise the injectors were low impedance. Was hoping they were high impedance. I don't think my budget can stretch to new injectors right now, although I have no idea how much they cost.
QUESTION: How would I figure what would be good injectors to choose? For now I think I can use PWM to control the low-impedance injectors, or use a current-limiting resistor (although that can cause problems with slow opening, I believe).